To make a 9 block piggy quilt like mine, you will need:
- 9 – 10″ (high) by 11″ (wide) inch background blocks.
- 9 pieces of batting, cut a little larger than background blocks (11 by 12 works)
- 36- 3 inch squares ( for cornerstones on each block)
- 9 fusible pig shapes ( for pattern, go here)
- 6- sashing strips that measure 1 by 10 inches
- 6-sashing strips that measure 1 by 11 inches
- 4 – 1 inch squares
- scraps in assorted colors ( I made my pigs in the same color family, but I think they would look just as cute all scrappy!)
- Begin by piecing your scraps together to form a rectangle big enough to fit the piggy shape.
- De-lint the back of your pieced shape, if necessary, and fuse your piggy to the back of your fabric. ( Try your best to not have the curvy ( ie feet, snout, tail) outside of your shape land on too many seams….seams can be a bit tricky!)**little note: you may be tempted to cut just an “outline” fusible to make the quilt less stiff, but in this case you need all that “sticky-ness”!**
- Cut out your piggy using a sharp pair of scissors ( remember those seams I was talking about?? You will need a sharp pair of scissors to cut through those layers of fabric!)
- Fuse your piggy to your chosen background piece ( I tried to match my pig to the background a little bit ( purple pig on background with some purple, etc~ but you can do whatever you like!) I fused my pigs about 2 ” from the top, and 1″ from side ( snout wise).
- Take 4 – 3″ corner squares and draw a diagonal line on the back. Place these on the corners of your background piece and sew on the line. Press open and trip excess away from behind.
- Layer your fused piggy background on a piece of batting and pin in a few places to keep the fabric in place.
- **Switch to a walking foot now**. Stitch around your piggy with some kind of good “lock-down” stitch ( I used a blanket stitch). You will need something to hold those layers down! Sew slowly at spots where the seams are ( the top layer of fabric at the seams has no fusible so you want to make sure they get tacked down properly).
Just for fun I decided to use some fancy machine stitches on some of my piggy seams. Even if you don’t want to use fancy stitches, I recommend you stitch in the ditch, because you need to tack that fabric down in a few more places. Also quilt in the ditch at the cornerstones.
- After quilting is completed, trim your batting ( and block, if necessary) to 11 by 10.
- Sew the 1 by 10 inch sashing strips between the piggy blocks. You will be sewing JUST fabric to your block and batting. There will be NO batting behind these sashing strips. Press away from piggy blocks. The batting from the piggy blocks will cover the gap made by the sashing! Give everything a good press ( I press from front only, because batting doesn’t always like a hot iron!)
- Once your three rows of piggies have been assembled, you will sew the 1 by 11 sashing strips to each other, while connecting them with the 1 ” square.Press towards square. Now sew these sashing strips between the piggy rows. You will want to pin HEAVILY to keep everything in place! PRESS in between each step ( again, I recommend from front only).
- When your quilt top is complete, cut a piece of backing fabric about 40 by 40 inches.
Place your backing wrong side up on a work surface and fasten down with tape or clamps. Layer your piggy top on top. Baste as you normally do.
- Quilt where you wish, but I recommend in the ditch between the blocks, both vertically and horizontally. This is all the quilting you NEED because your piggy is already quilted to the batting. If you want to do more, by all means go ahead, but it won’t be necessary. Trim your backing even with your front.
- Cut 4- 2 1/4 by LOF binding strips and make one continuous binding strip and attach to your quilt as per usual binding instructions. TADAAAA! You have just completed a Quilt As You Go Piggy quilt!